Gumbo Roux (Dark Cajun Roux)

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The key to a great gumbo? Nailing the gumbo roux. It’s the building block of the entire dish (not to mention other incredible Cajun and Creole dishes), and getting it right is a real art. This recipe for dark gumbo roux makes the process as easy as can be – all you need is fat, flour, patience, and a good stirring arm.

A rich, dark brown Cajun gumbo roux in a large skillet with a whisk.

Before You Get Started

The fat you use for gumbo your roux will have a direct effect on the process and the outcome, so choose carefully! Butter is my preference, but it can burn easily when it’s cooked long enough to create the dark color we want. See the “Recipe Variations” section below for a breakdown of your options.

The Four Stages of Roux

White Roux

Barely-cooked and still vaguely tasting like flour, a white roux has the most thickening power of the four stages. It only takes about 5 minutes to create a white roux, just long enough to combine the fat and flour and neutralize the raw flour flavor. Use a white roux as a base for white gravy or to thicken chowders.

Blonde Roux

After about 10ish minutes, you should end up with a very light brown (or blonde) roux. At this point, you’ve got the perfect roux for béchamel or mornay sauces, to thicken cheese sauces, or to thicken soups.

Brown Roux

Smooth and peanut-buttery in color, with a slight nutty flavor, a brown roux is a fabulous base for gravies and soups, like my copycat Oyster Brie Soup. It’s also what you’d want if you’re making an espagnole sauce for beef tenderloin, lamb shank, short ribs, or chicken.

A rich, peanut-buttery roux in a large skillet with a whisk.

Dark Brown Roux

The goal! Dark brown roux is rich and fragrant, and looks a little like melted dark chocolate. This is the ideal roux for gumbo, jambalaya, étouffée, and red beans & rice. It won’t thicken as much as a blonde roux, but it has a much deeper flavor.

Frequently Asked Questions

How do I know if I burned my roux?

If you see black specks, smell something sort of like burnt popcorn, or get a bitter flavor when you taste your roux, it is, unfortunately, a goner. You’ll need to toss it, clean the saucepan, and start again.

Can I save a burnt roux?

Unfortunately, no. There’s no way to walk back a burnt roux. Some might recommend adding sweeteners or lemon juice to minimize the burnt flavor, but that can throw off the flavors and consistency of your final dish. For the best results, I recommend just starting over.

Why does my roux burn every time?

If this happens to you, check these three things. 1) Your fat of choice has too low a smoke point for extended cooking. Try using clarified butter or a high-heat oil instead. 2) You’re cooking on too high of a heat. I don’t recommend going above “medium” at any point. 3) You’re not stirring the roux constantly – and I do mean constantly. You can’t stop at all, and you certainly can’t walk away from a roux.

What is the formula for a roux?

A roux uses a 1-to-1 ratio of fat and flour. That means equal amounts fat and flour. Some swear that it must be equal parts by weight, not volume, but I was taught (and have consistently good results with) equal amounts by weight.

It Starts with Roux

Truffle Mac and Cheese

Creamed Onions

Mornay sauce being poured over a bowl of spiral noodles

Classic Mornay Sauce

White gravy atop a large bowl of mashed potatoes

Homemade White Gravy

Recipe Variations

You’re not required to use butter as the fat for your gumbo roux! It’s probably the most common option, and my personal preference, but any of these would work:

Clarified Butter: Clarifying butter removes the milk solids, giving the clarified butter (a.k.a. ghee!) a higher smoke point than traditional butter. If you have issues with your traditional-butter-roux burning after the “brown roux” stage, try clarified butter instead.
Neutral-Flavored Oil: Again, the smoke point of your fat makes a big difference! If you opt for oil, use something like canola oil, vegetable oil, or peanut oil which have a higher smoke point than, say, olive oil. You can also add a touch of oil to your butter-based-roux to reduce the odds of burning when you’re going for deep, dark results.
Bacon Grease: On the upside, using bacon grease gives your roux a nice, smoky, savory flavor. The downside? You have to cook a lot of bacon to get enough bacon grease for a significant roux. Ok, so, maybe that’s not a big downside. Still. Bacon grease can take longer to brown than the other fats, so keep that in mind. You also want to strain the grease before using it, making sure any solid pieces of bacon are removed.
Lard: Some people swear by lard-based-roux for their gumbo. If you’re considering it, one thing to keep in mind is that lard can have a rich pork flavor that might remind you of cracklins. Use a high-quality lard like leaf lard and avoid any that contain hydrogenated oils. Oh, and watch your roux very closely. Lard can burn quickly!

Making changes to a recipe can result in recipe failure. Any substitutions or variations listed are simple changes that I believe will work in this recipe, but results are not guaranteed.

Recipe By: Cheryl Malik